Fixed Lens

zoom vs fixed lens?

i got a situation.

i want to get the Tokina AF 28-70mm f/2.6-2.8 AT-X Pro II
http://photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/tokina_2870_2628/index.htm

but my firends says that it is better to get 3 prime lens ( 1 canon 24mm f/2.8 , 50mm f/1.8 and a 100mm f/2) instead, for the same price. he says that da zoom i want does not have as good quality as the 3 fixed lens.

wut should i pick?
or should i get 3 se

There's some truth in what your friend is indicating. Prime (one focal range) lenses are usually "faster" (wider maximum aperture) than zooms, and primes also yield greater image detail and have less aberrations that cause a certain degree of "softness" (due to different color light rays coming into focus at different points of the film or sensor) and distortions (barreling or pincushion) where straight lines seem to bend. This has to do with the immense difficulties in engineering, not brand names. In zoom lenses, the elements must move and are not static as in prime lenses. So, every time the elements move, there are different mathematical components to be considered. Today's zooms are far better than yesteryear because of the use of computers that assist the engineers with the advanced, difficult computations that take place during the engineer phase and, also, the use of modern manufacturing that makes use of robotics and computerized equipment that can now make near perfect duplicates of the same thing by repeating the process mechanically over and over again, as opposed to the use of human hands that cannot do the same constantly.

However, there are those, like me, who do not promote the use of any generic lenses since WE feel that generic lens manufacturers cut corners and save on the construction costs by making inferior body build and use inferior glass formula and thusly achieve cheaper products to offer at cheaper prices for the consumer. That, however, has its own set of consequences. For one, the resale prices are usually lower than the actual brand name. Secondly, the aberrations and distortions are more visible upon enlarging beyond 4" x 6" or 8" x 10" whereupon you can notice the "softness" around the edges of the images. When buying a generic lens, remember: You get what you pay for!

Look, if you have a good brand name camera and it is relatively expensive, why would you hamper its performance with inferior lenses? That makes about as much sense as putting Sears tires on sale on a Ferrari or a Porche or Rolls-Royce! How can you expect maximum detail in images if you use cheap lenses?

On the whole, lenses normally outlast camera bodies unless they're dropped on a hard surface or submerged in water. A used lens with a high rating (conditions) will still give you many years of service. Buying used gives you a superior product at a lower prices and savings to you to better utilize your money to buy other lenses or accessories. Don't forget the resale price is higher, too.

Of course, zoom lenses today are getting so much better that what was available years ago. Today's zoom lenses are really giving great image details and the differences between primes and zooms are not that noticeable, and that is why many pros still use (fast) zoom lenses. Yes, some landscape, cityscape and wildlife photographers are indeed using long telephoto primes.

The one exception is the use of those super-zooms now being made even by brand name lens manufacturers today for those one-in-a-while photographers (vacationers and those who pull out their cameras on special occasions) rather than for avid hobbyists. I refer to those lenses that range from 28-200mm and those that range from 28-300mm. These, regardless of manufacturers, are notorious for aberrations and distortions at both ends of the lens barrel (wide angle and telephoto ends) because of the immense difficulties in manufacturing these lenses. They're somewhat of a convenience but the disadvantages (aberrations and distortions) far outweigh the advantages of only carrying one lens.

Better to use several shorter range zoom lenses than fewer long zoom lenses for maximum image details. And, if you're working on portraits where you'll be doing poster size blow-ups, go with primes.

That's about it. I hope this helps. Good luck with your decision.